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#2377 TECHNIQUES: Diagonal Tiling by Lingming Tseng on Facebook

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Old techniques can sometimes be improved by a single new element! Follow our step-by-step tutorial and the discussions afterward to see how to smooth out the edges of diagonally tiled regions.


#2377 TECHNIQUES: Diagonal Tiling by Lingming Tseng on Facebook Old techniques can sometimes be improved by a single new element! Follow our step-by-step tutorial and the discussions afterward to see how to smooth out the edges of diagonally tiled regions. Visit Lingming’s Facebook and Youtube for more of the impressive Old Taipei Railway Workshop project: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=lingming&set=a.10160427026458705 https://www.youtube.com/@oistrakh1984

Background Rotating 2x2 tiles by 45° on single studs creates tiny gaps and thus a realistic floor pattern. This technique has been around forever, but so has the accompanying problem: how to finish it off and bring tiles back to level? We can see the basic pattern beneath the 45° tiles and the ragged edges in the Durham Cathedral project by Bright Bricks starting from 2013, not too long after the debut of the 2x2 jumper.

There are actually two ways to do 45° tiling: with 1x2 jumpers, or with 2x2 jumpers plus 1x1 plates. The exposed studs are all 2.12 studs apart for both methods. This smooth-edge technique can work for both, but we’ll focus on the 2x2 jumper version for the tutorial today.

1: Place 2x2 jumpers and 1x1 plates on an elevated studded surface as a base, with 1x2 tiles (optional) separating all of them. The last row before the smoothing starts should be the one with 1x1 plates. 2: Extend the side you wish to smooth out with 2x2 bricks and jumpers on top, following the same pattern.

3: Fill in the gaps between the 2x2s with 1x1 modified SNOT bricks: the first one along the edge of the base, and the second one onto the sideways stud with its own stud facing up. 4: Cover the inner 1x1 SNOT brick with 1x1 tiles, and the outer one with 1x1 plates – this is to create the correct spacing to attach 2x2 triangular tiles.

5: Put on 2x2 tiles on all the studs; the off-grid ones we just created are for the 2x2 triangular tiles. Notice we colour-coded the tiles to match the piece underneath from the previous step. 6: Place a row of 1x bricks with 3 modules between them and the original edge of the base.

7: Cover the row of 1x bricks with 1x2 jumpers. 8: Attach the central anti-studs of 2x tiles to the 1x2 jumpers to get them close to the triangular tiles, and voila!

Discussions The same applies to the opposite side, but there is no elegant solution for the other two sides with the current parts as far as we are concerned. In Lingming Tseng’s build, only the side facing outdoors is smoothed up. All 3 other sides rely on the traditional method: another layer of plates at a higher level to frame the now recessed tiled region.

We now zoom out to look at the whole section of this building: the jumpers reaching inward to the triangular tiles earlier also create a protruding ledge on the other side, which might be undesirable or hard to conceal in other cases.

This technique and the build it was developed for are all part of this ongoing Old Taipei Railway Workshop project by Lingming Tseng. Check out his Facebook (Lingming Tseng) for more pictures and the speed build on his YouTube channel (@oistrakh1984)!

Visit Lingming’s Facebook and Youtube for more of the impressive Old Taipei Railway Workshop project: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=lingming&set=a.10160427026458705


3 Comments

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